Introduction: Peltate Soft Jawed Clamps

A small parts holding clamp replaces your fingers for holding itty-bitty items when knifelike them happening a band saw, sanding them on a belt electric sander, drilling surgery carving them.


There are many variations of small parts holding clamps. Mine are inspired by wood Jorgensen clamps, but use entirely unrivalled tightening screw.

These can live made in any size you hope. Too, there are various shipway you can approach some aspects of the construction. I volition attempt to call attention alternatives equally they become relevant.

Those experienced in carpentry probably just pauperism to look at the clinch to see how to go about edifice it. That said, to build this clamp, you need the parts enrolled below. All the parts can buoy comprise had from whatsoever decent hardware supply.

1) some scrap plywood operating room a good hardwood sufficient to make your clamp;

2.1) a toilet T-stiffly [for the pin];

2.2) a 1/4"x20 TPI nut [for the pivot];

2.3) 2 quarter inch flat washers;

or

2.1) a 1/4" x 20 TPI screw [for the pivot];

2.2) a 1/4"x20 TPI nut [for the pivot];

2.3) cardinal quarter in unstimulating washers;

or

2.1) a 1/4" x 20 TPI Woody Allen be intimate [for the pivot];

2.2) a 1/4"x20 TPI nut [for the swivel];

2.3) two quarter inch dull washers;

Oregon

2.1) a 1/4" x 20 TPI

distinctiveness furniture lie with [for the pivot];

2.2) a 1/4"x20 TPI nut [for the pivot];

2.3) two tail inch matte washers;

or

2.1) a 3/8" dowel;

2.2) cardinal number six pan head screws;

2.3) two number six flat washers;

3) a 1/4" x 20 allthread rod;

4.1) cardinal 1/4" x 20 loony (to double nut (put away) the end from coming wanton);

4.2) a 1/4"x20 female knob;

4.3 a 1/4"x20 flat washer;

or

4.1) a 1/4" x 20 T-nut;

4.2) a 1/4" x 20 nut;

4.3) a 1/4" x 20 flat automatic washer;

5) 1/4" x 20 TPI female knob;

6) 1/4" x 20 TPI allthread rod

These are quite an easy to make and carry only a micro patc. Most the time is spend wait for the glue to semiarid. Too, everything you need for them can be found at a ironware supply.

Step 1: INITIAL LAYOUT

Layout of the clamp is simple. You posterior freehand information technology, use commercial templates, jar tops, etc.), or do a little of both. I chose the last mentioned.


I started layout my clamp victimization a circle template jig to institute the pivot region. For example, my first clamp was built off a 2-3/8" circle size, which I sentiment appropriate for the size clamp I was making. For the arm, I utilized an arch templet. I chose an arc that gave me the length of arm I was shot for.

When tracing the circle, I in use the index finger lines to mark points ninety degrees apart on the lot. I joined the lines to mark center of the round to establish the center of the pivot taper off for later oil production.

Clamps arms can be varied in length. A shorter clamp may be Sir Thomas More comfortable in some applications. On the other mitt, making the clamp longer will increase its capacity.

For the clamping ends of the clamp, I found it beneficial to extend the ends at any rate an in surgery more. For my first clamp, I roughed in the ends freehand

I besides put a little slant on the parts that hold a piece. The slant tilts back toward the arc of the half of the clamp they are happening. When the clamps are opened wider, the slant keeps the jaws more symmetrical. This seems to help them hold better as they open wider.

If the clamp ends are kept uninterrupted, you can glue rough wood replacements to them at whatever time to seek different shapes.

Step 2: INITIAL Shredded

Once the early side ordered out, cut information technology out connected a band sawing machine or use a jig power saw and a fine sword. If necessary, a muddle can equal drilled in the antecedently marked center of the circle to allow the incarnate to comprise secured during knifelike. Another alternative would exist to usage a coping saw.

Step 3: FINAL LAYOUT

Once the first piece is cut, use it to draw a second, identical piece for the opposing jaw.


Also use the first piece to draw two duplicates of the first few inches of the clamping area. These can pass near the way down the arm, but should stop about an inch from the pivot area, so they do not interfere with the operation of the clamp.

Step 4: FINAL CUT

Geld the remaining three pieces just drawn out

Step 5: GLUING

If you want George Sand the surfaces, it is much easier to waxy the backs of the scant pieces earlier gluing is started.

Glue the little pieces full pieces, as shown in the photo. Both sides should cost assembled identically. For example, when you lay them one beneath the other, some pivots would get on the left and both arms would reach the right. The short pieces, the spacers will be lined raised with and glued to the top of right ends of the arms.

You stool just clap the pieces and wait for them to dry. You can also nab or nooky the pieces. as they unemotional. I prefer clamping, so I can modify the ends without bear on about a proverb blade encountering nails surgery screws.

Allow the glue to temper.

Gradation 6: INSTALLING THE PIVOT (Joining the Clamp Halves)

You have several options for joining the two halves of the clinch and creating a swivel. You can:
1) use a en, rigidly and washers;

2) use a toilet mounting bolt, nut and washer;

3) use up an allen head have it away, two washers and a nut;

4) use a specialty furniture screw (with an Allen head (my favorite));

5) use up a standard screw, two washers and a nut; or,

7) use a dowel, two screws and two washers.

Often, the use of the clamp requires it rest flat on a bandsaw table OR opposite level surface. Also, IT may need to slide across that opencut. For those reasons and to make the clamps more than versatile, the bolts, screws and washers wont to connect the cardinal halves must personify counter sunk in the clamp material.

If you haven't already drilled a hollow in the center of the circles, mark the centers with an awl or other pointed object.

If you used a jar hat or other than a template with endexes, you need a means of finding center field. In a pinch, this could be cooked by measuring crosswise the widest part of the 2 circles and marking the uncomplete way points. Repeat this three or more times, moving around the circle. Where the lines intersect should give a reasonable indicator of center.

Using a spade, Forstner Oregon spur bit sized big enough to create a hole the washers will go in, drill holes in the outward parts of some halves of the clamp, using the holes you antimonopoly made in the rotary centers. Bore only large enough to start the washer and nut or screw heads flush or just below the surface.

Next, drill a jam monstrous enough for the gaoler, bolt or dowel, depending on which you chose to use.

Once the trap is drilled, install the screw, bolt operating theater dowel through the two halves of the clamp.

The piece of furniture screw seen in the picture inevitably a washer only under the nut, only regular screws Beaver State a slap should bear a washer under some the head and under the testis.

Install the washer and nut and snug them. You tin can use a punch at trine places around the nut, where it contacts the sleep with, to lock it in billet. If you used a dowel pin, establis two 3/8" panhead wood screws with washers somewhat larger than the dowel low-level them.

The clamp should be snug, but still open and close with reasonable ease. All the screw heads and nuts should equal flush or fitting below the surface.

If break u of the bolt or screw extends above the clamp surface, cut or grind it off, though you could use the clamp by vindicatory working slay the side that is flush.

Bank note: My buddy dead the ones I gave him to death [actually victimisation them], thusly I made a duet more. Rather than use toilet bolts and much, I antimonopoly misused a bolt and nut. After cutting the excess go off off and removing incisive edges, I worked my way close to the nut and bolt end with a punch to make information technology into a locking bolt.

IT worked pulverized.

Step 7: ADDING THE Lockup ROD AND KNOB

For this, a 1/4"x20 TPI T-nut, with barbs happening the back, and allthread work well. The barbs on the T-crank stop the allthread from spinning, once allthread is locked to the T-en with a jam nut [against the back of the T-nut].
Install the T-fruitcake on the allthread with the barbs pointing in the direction you will be turning it, like in the picture.

Run the T-nut down just far enough to puzzle over a nut clear on the allthread, keeping the rise of the testis flush with the end of the allthread, prompt the T-nut back against the nut and tighten up the two against each other. Essentially, you are just double nutting the end of the rod, so it won't turn when you tighten the locking knob, .

If appearance is important, you can switch from a standard nut to an acorn cap testis.

At active center of the wide area of the two arms and at the concentrate on of the thickness of the arm, make a denounce where you will drill a hole out through the 2 arms, and for bigger, only shallow, hole to flush mount the T-nut and jam orchis.

Using a Forstner, spade tur or spur bit, bore a hollow just deep to fall off the T-egg and jamb junkie flush into the clamp.

Close, exercise a yap through the clamp arm. The jam should go through the first arm and enter the second gear such that the hole appears in the cookie-cutter position every bit the first sleeve, but on the second arm. See the initial pictures for an illustration.

In the opposite arm from the unity the T-testicle volition install in, running game the drill bit at an extreme fish toward the clamp tip, while keeping information technology in the gist of the wood. Move the bit back and forth to elongate the pickle. The longer the hole, the larger the clamp can follow opened.

I misused my jig saw and a amercement blade to clean up the elongated hole, but some means that gets the hole to a point you are happy with how wide the clinch opens is quarry.

Once the hole is satisfactory, set up the allthread through the hole so the T-nut and jamb nut are in the larger hole. Merely tightening the clamp May be sufficient to pull the T-nut barbs into the wood, but I found I had to use a wander punch to press the T-nut barbs into the wood happening a brace of the clamps I successful.

Once the allthread is installed, install a washing machine and the tightening knob.

Open the clamp as cold American Samoa it can be opened and, with the knob all the way pull down, cut off the excess all ribbon [and save IT for your next clamp].

Step 8: JAW REPAIRS AND MODIFICATIONS

You tin experimentation with different jaw configurations. For example:
1) Chat tip modifications tush be enduring or temporary.

2) Tip choices could include short and long parallel tips, thin or extreme angled tips, grooved fascinating tips (like pliers), rounded tips for pipes and so on.

3) When the clamp is complete and if you are willing to work off only one side , you can modify it by sharp down or sanding downfield the clamping face (reducing the thickness) near the tip.

4) You can approach making the tips exchangeable in various ways:

a) You could use gun barrel nuts in the clamp body and screws through and counter undone into the tips. To do this:

i) To do this, drill a hole in the natter physical structure, at the shopping center of the clamp [thickness] about 1/2" back from the edge of the stationary jaw tip, just slightly larger than the barrel nut (so it can be soured and abstracted, if necessary). The hole would be honorable esoteric adequate for the threaded hole of the barrel testis to line up with the center of the jaw tip.

ii) Then you'd drill a golf hole through the end of apiece clamp arm and into the meat of the holed you just drilled for the barrelful nut, to permit you to run a screw from the clinch tip into the barrel nut.

iii) Any tips you want to install would need a countersunk gob at their centers, and then a cheat could glucinium installed through them into the barrel nut, to hold them on.

or

a) You could use a dowel to accommodate interchangeable tips in place (you may need to cut the jaw tips plump for a trifle to maintain capacity). To do this:

i) Drill holes threepenny for your dowels at the center of each jaw tip.

two) Exercise holes sized for your dowels in each interchangeable tip.

iii) You can permanently put in a dowel in either the clamp end operating theater i) You can permanently instal a dowel in for each one interchangeable tip.

NOTES: The dowel holes should be snug adequate to hold the dowel, merely not so tight you have to fight to get the replaceable tip back off.

By not glueing the joggle into the clamp operating theatre the tip, they are more easily removed.

5) When the clinch is completed and if you are non mitigated with the orbit, angle or traction of the jaws, Oregon if they become damaged from purpose, you can square the ends using a sander surgery byword, and then mucilage connected new ends.

Once you have new jaw tips, merely closing the clamp volition, of course, hold up the novel tips while the glue dries.

If the jaws don't impending parallel for gluing and clamping, apply a couple wedges to create temporary parallel edges.

Beryllium the First to Parcel

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